Specimens to Avoid

Specimens to Avoid



I have tried to list the major specimens that should be avoided in the typical reef tank due to various reasons. Many of the fish listed are best kept in fish-only tanks due to size, aggression or eating habits. Some experts might want to take on the challenge some of these present, but at least you've been forewarned.

FISH

Specimen Difficulty
Achilles tang
Very delicate. Seems to require specific water conditions of very high quality. Should be left to experienced reef keepers with mature tanks.
Angle fish
Tend to get too large and eat coral. Some hobbyists have been successful in keeping angle fish in a reef, but it is a risky business.
Anthias
Tend to be very delicate. Seem to do best in large established tanks with frequent feeding several times a day.
Catalina Goby
These fish are commonly put into reef tanks, but they are cold water species from the California Catalina Islands and do not survive very long in the tropical temps of the typical reef tank.
Butterflyfish (Most)
Many eat coral, all tend to be delicate.
Exceptions: Copperband butterfly (delicate, but coral safe).
Firefish
Tend to be very shy and can be bullied by aggressive tank mates until they starve. Success with these can be somewhat spotty depending on various factors. Do best with other non-aggressive fish or in a dedicated tank.
Groupers
Tend to grow too large and eat tank-mates
Jaw fish
Require attention to providing the proper substrate for them to build their homes in.
Lion Fish
Eat tank-mates
Mandarin dragonets
Must have large, long established reef habitat for feeding. Many only eat live foods found in the tank. Recommend introduction only in tanks established over a year and at least 55 gallons in size per mandarin to provide food requirements.
Moray eels
Tend to eat tank mates. Most get too large and become a nuisance in the reef tank.
Moorish Idol
Tend to be delicate, difficult to feed, may eat coral
Parrot fish
Notorious coral eaters
Pipe fish
Have difficulty competing with other fish for food. Best kept in dedicated tank or with seahorses.
Porcupine fish
Eats invertebrates and can be difficult to keep nutritional requirements met.
Sea horses
Not well suited to the typical reef tank due to need for low water currents, plus they have difficulty competing with faster fish for food. Best kept in a dedicated tank.
Sharks
Most grow too large and tend to eat tank mates. Should be kept in fish-only tanks.
Sleeper Gobies (Valenciennea sp.)
Sometimes will not take food and cannot get enough by sifting sand and slowly waste away. Their aggressive sand sifting style can also pile sand on the coral and other places you don't want it.
Triggerfish
Very aggressive and destructive. Should be kept in fish-only tanks.
Wrasses
Larger wrasses can be destructive in the reef tank, most tend to be somewhat delicate. Best bet for a reef tank is probably the 6-line wrasse.



Invertebrates

Some of the specimens listed here are completely unsuitable for a reef tank while others require specialized care and only hobbyists that are willing or able to address those specialized care issues should attempt to keep these specimens.

Specimen Difficulty
Anemones (Carpet varieties)
Anemones, especially of the large carpet varieties tend to require the highest lighting possible and often wander around the tank stinging other corals while looking for the best spot to settle down. Best kept in dedicated tank under intense lighting.
Basket starfish
Very difficult to care for due to filter feeding habits.
Brittle star (Long-spined)
Brittle stars tend to be good reef tank specimens, but some of the long-spined varieties seem to be very difficult to acclimate and immediately fragment upon introduction to the tank.
Camel Shrimp
Tend to eat tank mates including clams and polyps.
Chambered nautilus
Eats tank-mates. Requires dedicated tank.
Chocolate chip starfish
Eats tank-mates
Goniopora / Flowerpot coral
Majority do not survive past 6 months in reef tanks, but some do. Appears to require relatively 'dirty' water with heavy organics in order to survive. The candidates with the best chance of survival include the purple and pink varieties or the related Alveopora.
Flame Scallop
Non-photosynthetic unlike Tridacna clams and therefore require supplemental feeding of phytoplankton or similar to survive.
Harlequin (Clown) shrimp
Has specialty diet that is hard meet (small starfish)
Non-photosynthetic corals These all require targeted supplemental feeding if you are going to keep them. Some of the most common include: Sun corals, carnation corals, non-photosynthetic type gorgonians.
Octopus
Tend to eat tank mates and escape from the tank. Best in dedicated tank.
Sea Apple
These sea cucumbers are filter feeders and require that their feeding requirements are met. There are also reports that they can poison the tank if unhappy or they die.
Sea Slugs
Most are not compatible with the reef tank due to eating habits, or the tendency to fit through the power heads.

Houston We Have A Problem

This morning I woke up to find my Butterfly Tang stuck to the overflow box. I'm pissed, this is the first fish I have lost. I'm pissed because he was beautiful and cost me $40!! Now I have to figure out how to solve this problem. I really didn't think that the suction was that strong going into the overflow, guess I was wrong. I guess I could raise it just a bit and hope that it doesn't happen again. Whats weird is I have a little Firefish that swims around it all day long!! Go figure!